Charles de Gaulle once reputedly mused, “How can you govern a country which has 246 varieties of cheese?” While we’re sure it’s difficult, we can’t help but point out that we never heard Queen Elizabeth or Churchill complaining about the plethora of cheese available just across the channel from de Gaulle’s France.
Though it doesn’t garner the press of its Gallic cousins, British Cheese is having quite the moment. Since the so-called British Cheese Renaissance of the 1970s—for more on that, read cheese expert Ned Palmer’s explanation of the History of British Cheese—the rather large island across the Atlantic has been shepherding out some of our favorite bricks and wheels. Below, a few of the best British cheeses—with suggested wine pairings, of course—to bring a little proper touch to your next British bash:
Cheshire, a moist crumbly cheese with a delicate mineral flavor, is a classic Territorial variety. The Appleby family still makes this one in the traditional way, with raw milk from their own herd of cows. Nyetimber’s award winning Blanc de Blancs, made in Sussex, has a toasted brioche note and a hint of minerality which perfectly complements that flavor in the cheese.
Sleightlet is a soft goat cheese best eaten at a few days old. It has a barely perceptible tang of goat’s milk and a refreshing citrusy acidity, and is routinely noted as one of the best British cheeses around. Full Fifteen is a bold sparkling red from Australia (we’re admittedly straying from the British theme here, but at least we have the decency to keep it within the Commonwealth) with notes of black pepper, licorice and dark fruits. The acidity of the Sleightlet accentuates the juicy cherry flavor in the wine, like having a boozy fruit compote with crème fraîche.
This is Ned’s favorite cheese and Champagne pairing—or, depending which day you ask him, perhaps his favorite pairing of all time, full stop. St. Jude is a soft cow’s milk cheese with a clean milky flavor and the merest hint of fresh yeast. Palmer and Co. (no relation, sadly) Brut Reserve is a true Champagne with an incredibly complex palate that includes notes of honey and hazelnuts, both foods that pair well with this kind of soft cheese. The enveloping mousse of the Champagne (our dreams are filled with visions of their vintage 2008) combines with the fudge-like texture of the cheese to create a wonderfully rich mouthfeel.
Of course, that’s but three of hundreds of excellent British cheeses. To sample more, accompanied by tales of cheese making history and magic from the Neolithic to the 21st century, join Ned on an exclusive cheese tastings with Context Travel here in London. Or, for a few other ideas for wine pairings to accompany the best British cheese around, take a gander at our French wine recommendations from guide and sommelier Preston Mohr.
Ned Palmer is a cheesemonger and member of the Cheese Grader’s Guild, jazz musician, and philosopher, in that order. Ned began his career in cheese on the Gorwydd Caerphilly stall at Borough Market before going to work for Neal’s Yard Dairy. He set up The Cheese Tasting Company in 2014, and you can be sure to find him hosting cheese-related events all over London.
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