Marseilles: Exploring France’s Oldest City

Marseilles is a unique city where the old and the not-so-old, the sea and mountains, and the modern and the natural blend harmoniously. This juxtaposition of history and vibrant life makes Marseilles a city that captivates both visitors and locals alike.

A City Born of Love and Tradition

Founded by the Phoceans, Greek seafarers, around the year 600 BC, Marseilles’ history is rich and complex. The foundational myth of the city is one of love and welcoming. As the Phoceans sought new land to settle in, they stumbled upon what was then called Lacydon, now the Old Port of Marseilles. They were welcomed by the Celtic people that lived there. 

The chief of the Celto Ligures invited the Phoceans to the banquet he was organising that very night in honour of his daughter’s betrothal. As was their tradition, the soon-to-be bride would choose her groom from among the assembly of all the men present. Among all those Celtic chiefs and warriors, Gyptis, the Celtic princess, chose Protis, one of the Phocean seafarers. As a wedding gift, Gyptis’ father gave the couple Lacydon to settle in and create a city. This city would soon become Massalia under the Greeks, Massilia under the Romans and finally, Marseilles. 

Fort Saint Jean

The city, completely turned towards the sea, was the most important port of France, and its position as gateway to the Orient ensured the city’s cosmopolitanism and Mediterranean culture. This mix of culture can be found everywhere in the city, making it one of the most beautiful places to visit and a wonderful city to live in. 

Since its beginnings, Marseilles has never stopped walking in the footsteps of its founders. This spirit of hospitality and maritime tradition remains a cornerstone of Marseilles’ identity. 

Traces of Ancient History

To go back to Marseille’s beginning, visiting the old Roman ruins is a must. The places to go for this are the ruins of the Antic Old Port and the Museum of Marseilles’ History. At the museum, you can see a reproduction of the antic port as well as some amazing historical artifacts. 

There is, however, one other place that dates back to Roman times but completely blends into modern life. Near the Hôtel de Ville on Pl. Villeneuve-Bargemon, you will see a portion of the old Roman baths. At the time of writing, they are completely accessible, so take a moment to sit or lay on those stones. They are centuries old, and a true witness to Marseilles’ history. 

A Spiritual and Cultural Landmark

One of Marseilles’ most emblematic and historical locations is a religious monument: the Abbaye Saint Victor. According to some, it is the oldest Abbaye in France as it dates back to the 5th century. At the time, it was built outside the city, since it was forbidden to bury people inside the walls of the city. (Health and safety regulations go way back…)

Abbaye St. Victor

Today it is still active. Visitors may attend a mass or simply stop for a visit. If you’re up for it, explore the crypt, which houses a collection of sarcophagi dating back to the Abbaye’s early days. The Abbaye is at the centre of the neighbourhood’s life; there is nowhere better to sit at a bar’s table, with a cold pastis, watching the sun set over the Old Port.  

Forts and Legends

From the Abbaye, you can see two formidable forts: the Fort Saint-Jean and the Fort Saint Nicolas (also named La Citadelle). Fort Saint-Jean dates back to the 12th century and gets its name from the Knights Hospitallers of Saint John, as they were the first to man it. It underwent significant expansion between the 13th and 17th centuries.

As work on Fort Saint-Jean came to an end, Marseilles was rising against the power of the realm of France. Louis the 14th decided to take back the city by sending troops and constructing Fort Saint Nicolas. This fort was built turned towards the city instead of the sea, like the Fort Saint-Jean, to control and remind the population that the King was watching. 

Fort Saint Victor

Today, these historic structures host concerts and performances throughout the summer. Theatrical performances, festivals, food and drinks… They have it all! 

Literary Heritage at the Bar de la Marine

After exploring the city, take a stroll along the Vieux-Port. Here, you’ll find a bar that may not seem very special at first but is at the heart of a famous literary and cinematographic heritage. The Bar de la Marine was born from the mind of Marcel Pagnol, writer of the Trilogie Marseillaise. If such a bar did exist when Pagnol wrote about it, it was probably destroyed by the Germans during the occupation. However, the current Bar de la Marine is a faithful recreation that transports visitors to the 1930s, offering a glimpse into the Marseilles of Pagnol’s imagination.

Bar de la Marine

A Timeless Shopping Experience

Looking for something truly unique before you leave? Go to Maison l’Empereur; if you are looking for it, they have it! This historic hardware store was opened in 1827 by the Reynaud family, and eight generations later, they are still here today. Amazingly, they have never removed anything from their inventory, only adding to it. Today, the store boasts a stunning 50,000 referenced items. 

Maison Empereur

The shop has retained its 19th century feel, making it one of the most beautiful shops you’ll ever visit. From Provençal clothes to Savon de Marseille and artisanal toys to the perfume your great grandmother used to wear, they truly have it all. Maison l’Empereur offers a delightful shopping experience that earned it the 2024 Global Innovation Award for its excellence.

Experience Marseilles for Yourself

Marseilles is a city that effortlessly weaves its ancient past with the vibrant energy of modern life. Whether you’re exploring its Roman ruins, attending a performance at one of its historic forts, or simply enjoying the local culture with a pastis in hand, Marseilles offers an experience unlike any other. It’s a place where history is not just remembered but lived, and where every corner holds a story waiting to be discovered.

About Alix: 

Alix is a Marseillaise, through and through! She spent her childhood exploring the beauty that lay on the doorsteps of her family home, anchored for generations in the small fisher town that inspired Cezanne, Braque and Matisse. This upbringing between calanques, lavender fields and landscapes right out of impressionist paintings has moulded her into a true believer of Southern France as one of the most beautiful and interesting places on earth. She dedicated her studies to history, art and religious history–as well as many travels. Now back home, she shares her love for her region as well as its rich history to the welcomed travellers that come to roam the fields and cities of France’s Provence region.